United States — After years of preparation, setbacks and repeated attempts, American ultrarunner and mountaineer Tyler Andrews has officially etched his name into Everest history by breaking a speed record that stood for more than two decades.
The 36-year-old athlete reached the summit of Mount Everest in less than 10 hours, accomplishing a feat that typically takes climbers several days.
Record-Breaking Climb Comes After Years of Preparation
According to a press release, Andrews reached Everest’s summit from Base Camp in 9 hours, 55 minutes and 43 seconds on May 28, setting a new officially recognized speed record on the world’s highest mountain.
The achievement was the culmination of nearly six years of preparation, spanning seven attempts across three climbing seasons.
Just four days earlier, Andrews had been forced to abandon a previous record attempt despite being only 400 meters below the summit due to weather and logistical challenges.
Reflecting on the accomplishment, Andrews described the climb as his toughest challenge yet.
“This was the hardest thing I’ve ever done, mentally and physically. I’ve been preparing for this for almost six years, seven attempts over three seasons. I had no doubt that I was in the best physical shape of my life thanks to my preparation and guidance from my team at Human Power Health. But, you don’t just need to be super fit, you need cooperation from the mountain, the weather, the crowds. Everything has to align,” Andrews said.
Historic Time Breaks 23-Year-Old Record
Andrews began his ascent from Everest Base Camp at 7:11 p.m. on May 27 and reached the summit at 5:06 a.m. the following morning using the Southeast Ridge route.
His time surpassed the previous speed record of 10 hours, 56 minutes and 46 seconds, set in 2003 by Lhakpa Gelu Sherpa.
The accomplishment officially ended a record that had stood for 23 years. Both Andrews and Gelu Sherpa used supplemental oxygen during their respective record-setting climbs.
New Round-Trip Record Also Set
The historic climb did not end at the summit.
Andrews continued his descent and established a second major record by returning to Base Camp in just 16 hours and 32 minutes.
That mark was nearly two hours faster than the previous round-trip record of 18 hours and 30 minutes.
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The route covered approximately 18 miles and involved more than 12,467 feet of elevation gain and descent, making the feat even more remarkable.
For comparison, most Everest expedition climbers require five to seven days to complete the same journey.
Friends and Teammates Knew He Could Do It
Those closest to Andrews said they were not surprised by the accomplishment.
His friend and expedition organizer, Dawa Steven Sherpa, praised his determination and work ethic.
“Ty came back from that first attempt and immediately asked when he could go back up. I’ve watched him develop as a Himalayan climber over the past few years and seen first-hand how tough he is and how hard he trains. He’s the only person I’ve ever seen bring an exercise bike to Everest Base Camp,” Sherpa said.
The achievement was later verified by Billi Bierling, who confirmed Andrews’ summit time following a post-expedition review.
What’s Next for the Record-Breaking Climber?
Andrews has already built an impressive career that includes more than 100 world records across mountains, roads and trails.
Beyond athletics, he is also a writer, cancer survivor, advocate and public speaker.
Even after finally accomplishing a goal that consumed years of his life, Andrews hinted that he may one day return to Everest.
“I’d still like to break the Everest record without supplemental oxygen, but I think I need a break from Everest for now. I’ve still got a lot of racing and other records I’d like to chase,” Andrews said.
His Everest campaign also helped raise more than $40,000 for the Chaski Foundation, which supports young athletes in Ecuador and Nepal.
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